Wednesday, December 3, 2025

Bari and the Heel of Italy

​Today we landing in Bari which is the capitol  of Puglia which is also known as Apulia and even better known as the “heel of “Italy”

Bari became famous in the world of Catholics as the host for the body of St Nicholas (yes that St Nick) who, while Turkish and having never been to Italy had been named their Patron Saint. 

Feel free to check my facts, but apparently back in 1087, while under Norman Rule, 62 sailors were sent to Turkey to steal the body- ostensibly to protect it from the Seljuk Turks advance in that region. 

In any case, it literally put Bari on the map and soon the town began to prosper as pilgrims flocked to the new cathedral. 


Today, however we’re interested in Alberobello. On our drive there we so verdant agricultural land with Olives, grapes, wheat, almonds, cabbage, cherries oh yeah and more olives. 


Puglia is second only to Tuscany in wine production. 




Flat land stands in stark contrast to Croatia and the coast of the eastern Adriatic. 



And you see dry laid stone walls.  EVERYWHERE!  Walls made from the land thats farmed. Dry stone  construction means rain can move through and gaps in walls create microbioms. Dry stone walls received Unesco recognition. 



And between many of these walls you find olive trees. They are everywhere, even in the coat of arms. There are more than 60 million trees. It is said that some of them date back 3000 years. 


This building dates to ~1600. Back in the  15th century the government asked for a tax on each house built. So order to avoid this they started building house without mortar. And the roofs were laid with stone held in place by one “keystone” at the top. So if inspector came to own you just pulled out the keystone and the roof would collapse. This continued till 1720 or so. Now they use mortar so tourists can safely enter.  




Is a very dry and region, and so system were very very important. Try to collect rainwater distance of chain by digging, were used to build walls and wars were built with large block of line. The most important part is the roof. The roof is made by two different an inner skin inside, which is made by the same technique of the wall with large blocks of limestone and now there’s skin where the flags are slightly tilted outwardly and the structure is waterproof water.

You can see above  how the water was directed for easier collection. The guide is pointing to the runoff stone. 

Apulia actually means “no water” so its management was of great concern. 

You may notice that there are some different shaped keystones. The design indicated the builder. 



With the narrow winding streets and the small buildings everything is close and the smells of food in the modern town were everywhere. One can only guess what it might have been like when there were other “more earthy” scents mixed in. 


Two roofs connected for two brothers in love with some woman. I’m not quite sure how that story worked out. 

It is sometimes  also called the “white City”. Apparently at the time of the plague it became to commonplace to whitewash the buildings. Apparently the quicklime in the mixture had certain antibacterial properties - well that certainly wasn’t part of their awareness - but it became a common practice. 


The houses themselves were small, rarely with room for more than a family of 7.  There might be a loft for the parents and then in the one big room a corner of the kids, one corner for the kitchen. There was one door and often the only window as in that door - you can see it in the upper left quadrant of the door above. 


Later we drove to a farmhouse where we were treated to an assortment of homegrown foods 



There were 5 types of focaccia featuring local vegetable, olives of course and a couple big chunks of fennel. Plus of course some local wine. 


And I never got to tell you about the railroad cherries and way grandma told her granddaughter about adultery…..


I didn’t do the tour in Bari or the galley tour. I’ve been thinking about my incredible friend Elliot. He’s been a role model for many many years and we will miss him. But I won’t miss the  lousy Chinese food you always made me eat  Elliot!.

Galley Tour

​Took a tour of the Galley yesterday. Started off in the room-service prep area which is staffed by two at a time  24x7


Then to one of the primary kitchens. People do work closely together. 


This kitchen can prepare prepare over 100 plates dinners per hour. The next kitchen in the tour could do up to 300/hr. Prep and planning is the key. 


Keeping track of what’s happening:

Oh, and an UP  escalator for the waiters with their trays of up to 6 meals doesn’t hurt. 

All the baking and pasties are done on board

And the breads are all done by the guy in the background. 



Visual guidance of what’s what:


This place hums at dinner time. 

Tuesday, December 2, 2025

Split Croatia!

Something about getting up in the morning to a rainbow is always pleasing. 

We arrived in Split, Croatia a few days ago and am just getting to post now. Its Croatias 2nd largest city but the highest “transport”  city with active port, airport train and truck traffic  

A short walk took us to the old city but we all had to stop and admire the latest thing in solar powered park benches.  This has spots you can plug in you phone to charge or use the mag-charge system. No no excuse to avoid taking a walk?


Today we toured the Dioclesean palace and stealing info from a Google Summary: it is an ancient Roman palace built between 295 and 305 AD for the Roman Emperor Diocletian as his retirement residence. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the historic center of Split has grown around it.



 The palace is a well-preserved example of Roman architecture and functions as a living part of the city, with modern shops, homes, and businesses situated within its ancient walls.  Of course there is a bit of Xmas decorating going on  we entered through the iron gate (4 gates, 4 sides iron, brass, silver and gold)



This was built over a period of 10 years with the  use of 90,000 slaves:  quite the retirement home 




Anyway the city was erected with the green market on one side and the fish market on the other side  This other side was on top of a sulfer  spring - apparently they figured it would help with the smell of the fish  




This was purhaps the most special Moment  of the day. Walked into this room 


And found these guys hanging out. Take a listen. Wish all rooms with or without roofs could sound as good 





The next shot shows   an example of air conditioning from 1700 years ago.  On the right side you can see a window in the top half of the wall and  on either side of that you see stone brackets jutting out.  A rod was run between them and a wet cloth hung over the rod covering the window.  The evaporation from the cloth helped cool the room

  


By the 1st century the had a  9 kilometer aqueduct system. Apparently this guy thought of himself as the last pharaoh so you’ll see sphynxes and tombs ment represent a pyramid. 



But…..
Here at what was the temple of medicine (can you see the carved snakes?) the Sphynx lost his head and the building was turned to a baptistery when the Christians took over. 

I’m sorry the detail of the relief is lost so the snakes are hard to make out. Story has it thought that the guy that cut into the old tomb lost his head much like the curse in the Eygultian tomb raiders. 

This area below ended up filled with garbage but apparently had been a ladies area (whatever that means) 


Located behind a “Christmas is forever” we found what is alleged to be the 3rd oldest synagogue which unfortunately was not open 



And as always there are random shots
to peruse. 

This is the winter drink for the season. 
And for unicorn lovers
And I’m not sure of what to make of this one. Melanie is sure this sign means if you wanna drive your car into the ocean here is where you can do it. The question is why would they encourage that?

And our tour guides made a big point of assuring that they were of no relation to you know who